Simon Rogan… L’Enclume… Good Foof Guide… Claridges…Blah, Blah Blah.  I am sure you have heard of this opening.  We had the tasting menu which was £105.

Goat’s curd crisp, picked shitake

Stewed rabbit with lovage/ Scallops and peas in buttermilk


Tunworth, potato and duck heart

Crab, rhubarb, verbena and pork fat


Aynsome soup, mustard cream, soft herbs and flowers




Cornish lobster, pickled golden beetroot, dittander and sea herbs


Grilled salad, grilled over embers, Isle of Mull, truffle custard, sunflower seeds



Hake in caramelised cabbage, potatoes in chicken fat with nasturtium

Herdwick hogget, beetroots, runner beans and watercress


Pineapple weed with butterscotch and celery

Hereford strawberries with meadowsweet and linseeds


Black saison, cherries and fennel


This was a good meal but my by no means great, I think I preferred Roganic (RIP).  Also my friend’s photos from L’Enclume last week made me jealous- it really looked like it was worth a special trip.


Bacon (Antibes)

Scores: 1M*


Amuse Bouche

Amuse Bouche

Bacon is a seafood restaurant on the Cap D’antibes, which is a peninsula between Nice and Cannes.  Its specially is Bouillabaisse, the Provençal fish stew, which they seem to sell a lot of.  This is a very expensive restaurant – Bouillabaisse with langouste (local spiny lobsters) is 165e per person!  However, at lunch there are two 3 course set menus one at 85e and the other at 55e.  We ordered from both of them: fish salad and Bourride from the 85e one, and ravioli and simply grilled John Jory from the cheaper one.

Salade de Poisson Cru aux Herbes- local fish, freshly caught, served in thin slices, slightly marinated in lemon juice, olive oil and herbs.


Pasta ravioli, filled with a preparation of sea bass and truffles


Bourride- A variety of «  white flesh » fish filets steamed in a creamy fish broth perfumed with herbs and garlic


Fillets of John Dory grilled with olive oil, lemon and small pieces of tomatoes


We had Iced Nougat with Coulis of Fresh Raspberry and a selection of ice creams to finish.  This was a great lunch, although the food is very tasty it is also pretty simple (expect for the stew) and thus the food still feels relatively expensive even for the area but you also pay for the view:

Antibes old town

Antibes old town



Scores: GFG 3/ H 3/ Z 24

Donostia serves Basque style cuisine from a modern restaurant in a pleasant ‘village style’ street a short walk from Marble Arch.  We ordered a selection of small dishes from different selections of the menu including one of the daily specials: squid a la plancha.  Everything here was good; the basic ingredients were obviously of sound quality including some very nice ham.

Pan con tomate (£3.60)


Ibérico chorizo with piquillo pepper & watercress (£3.20)


Mini Wagyu beef burger (£4.30)


JABUGO: Cinco Jotas Jamón Ibérico de Bellota 3 years aged, hand carved (£19.8)


BAKAILAO KOKOTXAK: Crispy fried cod cheeks with black squid ink aioli (£7.30)


BIEIRA: Scallops with cauliflower purée (£8.60)


Squid a la plancha


Although it is different, I personally slightly preferred the food here to that received at Jose a couple of weeks before.  Here I thought some of the dishes stood out a little more and also the seasoning was a little better.  Unfortunately a friend was looking at the Scores on the Doors website the next day and proceeded to tell me that Donostia currently holds a 2, this has put me off making a further visit anytime soon…




Scores: H 2/ Z 24

Coya is a Peruvian restaurant and club by the people behind Zuma, the restaurant occupies the lower ground floor of a building on Piccadilly.  At dinner it has a trends to have a lively atmosphere but during a Saturday lunchtime it was only about half full.  The menu contains a lot of dishes including a vast range of starters and we decided to share some of these rather than order mains as well.  Some of the dishes have Japanese and other Asia influences which adds variety.

Red prawn ceviche


Yellowfin tuna tiraditos, ginger, fresh chilli salsa (£12)


Sea bass ceviche, red onions, sweet potato, white corn (£8)


Crispy prawns, aji limo (£10)


Chicken wings, spiced salt, tamarind glaze (£4.50)


Scallops with limo chilli crumbs, salsa criolla (£10)


Chicken anticuchos, aji amarillo, garlic (£10) + beef anticuchos


Everything was well cooked/ put together and it is hard to find again real faults except the bill can mount up fairly quickly.  At the same time there was nothing that blew me away.







Situated in the Bulgari hotel in Knightsbridge, Rivea is the London outpost of an Alain Ducasse place in San Tropez.  Despite the hotel sometimes jokingly being referred to as the Vulgari I found the décor of the basement dining room to be fairly tasteful.  The food, as you may expect, is Provencal style cuisine and it is served in a small plates (potential big bills) format.  We visited at lunch time and there is a good value lunch deal available: 2 starters, 1 larger plate, dessert, 1/2 bottle of water + tea or coffee for £35 per people.  What makes this particularly good is that you choose your dishes from the full dinner menu, not a restricted one, albeit a few of the dishes require a supplement to be paid.

These are some of the dishes I tried (dinner prices):

Marinated sea bream, citrus £8


Gamberoni, delicate lobster “gelée” (lunch + £2) £11


Sea bass, violon courgette and flowers £16


Corn-fed chicken breast, macaroni au gratin £12


Baked John Dory Riviera style £14


Lemon shortbread, Limoncello sorbet £6

The food here was very good, featuring well-cooked, good quality ingredients; even the chicken dish was full of flavour.  I would definitely come back although at dinner the bill is likely to ramp up quickly, especially if one gets involved in the wine list- during our lunch I sampled a £11 tiny glass of rose which was nice but I am pretty sure you could get a bottle of it for that price in a shop in France.

Rivea on Urbanspoon



Scores: GFG 3/ Z 28/ H 1

I had never been to Jose before but I know it is highly regarded and I have also had a good meal in its sister restaurant Pizarro before.  We arrived late at just after 10 on a Saturday night and ended up standing at the counter.  As soon as a stool freed up elsewhere it was brought over and offered to my girlfriend which was considerate.

We had quite a few items, most of them fairly classic tapas including patatas bravas as well as some slightly different stuff including a sea bream dish.

Bread and tomato


Jamón Ibérico




Jerusalem artichoke with pork


Overall there was some very good tapas on display here, for example the croquetas were cooked to perfection.  However, although this is definitely some of the best Spanish food in London I did not find it mind blowing.  If I was in the area I would go again but there are places that are closer to me that do tapas at or not far from this level.

Ox (Belfast)


Scores: GFG 6


Belfast has been without a Michelin starred restaurant for a few years now and there appears to be a general trend for places to move slightly away from fine dining to more casual atmospheres and simpler food.  Ox may be trying to win a star back as it is a restaurant with a contemporary vibe but there the food is definitely modern fine dining.  Following a policy of some London places, on the weekend it offers tasting menus only.  These are also ‘blind’ which also leads them to try and push wine pairings; we turned these down and ordered a bottle of white and red instead.  Ox also had a very good gin list which helped start the evening nicely.  The menu is 5 courses and it costs a not unreasonable £45- we were served the following dishes:

Milk curd, radish, pea, verbena


White asparagus, summer truffle, yolk, Iberico ham


Scallop, brandade, tomato chutney


Mourne lamb, spelt, crapaudine beetroot


Polenta, mascarpone, honey, apricot, pecan

This was generally a very good meal and it had definitely the most innovative food I have had in Belfast in years.  There were a few slip ups though; some of the courses took a long time to arrive and although the service was friendly it was far from perfect.  Also the food was just not quite well-balanced enough, for example the first dish was just a touch too sharp and the asparagus and ham was too salty.