Scores: 1 M*/ GFG 4 / Z25 / H 2
Medlar is one of two restaurants in the same category, the other being Kitchen W8, which offer reasonable value Michelin starred cooking in non-pretentious surrounding in K&C. Medlar in particular offers excellent value for money, 3 courses from the extensive menu are only £45 in the evening and £30 for Saturday lunch (and even cheaper again for a weekday lunch). Since my other half had decided to force me to do some Xmas shopping on the Kings Road, even though it was not yet December, I decided that we could do with some fuel to keep us going.
Medlar at heart is a bit of a neighbourhood joint; this is reflected in the casual atmosphere and friendly service. The great thing about the lunch menu is that it is just ‘the menu’, there is a full choice of all the dishes but it is a third cheaper. Choosing a starter was tricky but in the end I went for the crab raviolo with samphire, brown shrimps, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce. I think one of the signature dishes here or at least I have seen it on the menu quite a few times. It was a well-made raviolo and the crab filling really came though, the brown shrimps were also a nice addition. The rich bisque sauce was a winner adding to the dish. The only problem was that I found a little bit of shell in my month which is never pleasant. My girlfriend’s starter of burrata with caponata, rocket pesto, anchovy beignet, marinated peppers and balsamic looked good and I was assured was very tasty.
Stone bass with artichoke barigoule, chargrilled baby squid and salsa genovese was a large plate of food. The stone bass itself was well cooked and a nice bit of fish, while the squid was almost there but a touch rubbery. The vegetables were well cooked and the excellent broth was key to bring this dish together. There were plenty of flavours of a summer in Provence in this dish even on a cold winter’s day in London. Personally I thought the salsa Genovese may have been overkill but if one used a little it was nice. Loin and faggot of red deer, braised red cabbage, onion puree and root vegetables (£4.00 supplement) was bang on, featuring perfectly rare loin and tender flavoursome faggot. The vegetables were a good compliment and the sauce first rate.
We shared a passion fruit meringue tart with coconut ice cream and lime for dessert; this was a pretty good, refreshing pudding but a little too sweet for me. The coconut ice-cream was a good example and helped add a little balance. Overall this was a very good meal but certainly not top tier; however, for £30 a head for 2 courses this represents seriously value.